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The Dazzling History Of Rhinestone Jewelry
By Sher Matsen
Estate Jewelry International
Rhinestone
jewelry has a glittering past. Originally rhinestones where
referred to as Czechoslovakian or Bohemian glass dating as far back as the
13th century in Bohemia and the Czech Republic. Both have a history
steeped in beautiful hand blown glass as well as molded and cut glass. By
1918 glass was no longer limited to functional items. Czechoslovakian
glass began to make its appearance in dazzling and brilliant jewelry. This
Czech glass became known as rhinestones. Rhinestones were manmade gems from
highly refined glass. By using various metals the glass was colored to the
desired shade. It was then pressed into molds. Each stone was then ground
and polished by machine, resulting in a brilliant glass stone. Often the
stones were foiled on the back which increased their brilliance. Today,
the same refining process is still used. You will often here rhinestones
referred to as paste. Originally paste was referred to as glass stone that
was made of ground glass which was molded and then melted, producing an opaque
dense glass frosted stone. Paste had many air bubbles and swirl marks. The
high lead content glass was then polished and faceted, and set on either
copper or silver resulting in a brilliant stone. Today the term paste
usually refers to rhinestones. In Europe rhinestones are often referred to
as paste, strass, and diamante.
Austria is another area with a history in rhinestone production. In 1891
Daniel Swarovski created a new glass cutting machine which quite literally
revolutionized the jewelry business. This machine could cut faceted glass,
producing finely finished product in a very short time. Prior to this
invention it would take a very long time for each stone to be hand cut and
finished. Swarovski's background in glass making, combined with his glass
cutting machine soon found him producing rhinestones with a lead content
of over 30%. The brilliance of these rhinestones was superior to anything
seen on the market. Swarovski wasn't content with his invention and the
best rhinestones ever seen. His next invention was once again transforming
to the jewelry industry. He created a vacuum plating for the backs of the
stones with silver and gold, reducing the need for hand labor. Still today
Swarovski rhinestones are recognized as the highest quality in the
industry. Over 80% of rhinestone jewelry manufactured in America use
Swarovski rhinestones. Rhinestones have played an important role in costume
jewelry for hundreds of years. It is used to enhance and accent, and
sometimes rhinestones will provide the entire design. During the Victorian
period common motifs for jewelry included snakes, flowers, and hands most
often adorned with rhinestones. The 1890s were a time for extravagant
jewelry heavily adorned with rhinestones. As time moved forward designs
became simpler with figural shapes once again making their fashion
statement. However this time they were small and more elegant with small
rhinestone accents.
During the Edwardian period extravagance had made a comeback with diamonds
and pearls being the focal point. Once again rhinestones were in heavy
use, often used to imitate the real thing.
During the 1920s fashions were rapidly changing. Dresses had gone from
fitted to a looser more comfortable style. Two distinct styles occurred
during this era - the feminine style and the androgynous style. Jewelry
from the 1920s drew on the art deco period. The majority of rhinestone
jewelry was made with clear rhinestones. As the 1920s moved jewelry once
again became bolder, dramatic color was in style. Designer Coco Chanel was
an integral figure in the setting the stage for jewelry of this era.
During the 1930s during the depression labor intensive fashion was no
longer feasible. While the world was in turmoil, jewelry represented an
affordable comfort to many women. Inexpensive costume jewelry could be
used to revitalize an old outfit. The industry began to produce bright
colored enamel pieces accented with rhinestones. Dogs, birds, or cats with
a rhinestone eye were common place. The jewelry during the 1940s once
again became big and bold with rhinestones being produced in every
imaginable color, large stones set on large bold settings was the norm. By
the 1950s there were two very distinct looks - elegant and sophisticated
for the more mature woman, and casual and fun for the younger woman. The
1950s saw jewelry made completely from rhinestones. For the younger woman
were flirty pieces, for the older woman sophisticated elegance. Rhinestone
parures became extremely popular. In 1953 the aurora borealis rhinestone
was introduced to the market with its fabulous array of color. It was an
instant hit!
By 1960s women were wearing very functional clothing. By the late 1960s
the hippie fashions were extremely popular with their roots tied to Mother
Nature. Tie dyed shirts, long flowing skirts, frayed jeans were
everywhere. This generation had no interest in rhinestone jewelry. By the
mid 1970s the punk look had been born and the rhinestone was revitalized.
It was the disco movement brought rhinestone jewelry back to center stage. The
disco movement turned into the club movement during the 1980s and
rhinestone jewelry continued to gain popularity. Since the 1970s
rhinestone have remained main stream in the jewelry world. They continue
to gain popularity and today there is a style to suit almost every ones
needs. There is rhinestone jewelry which is perfect for a bride,
rhinestone jewelry for a prom girl, rhinestone jewelry for the young and
fun crowd, the business woman, the sophisticated woman, and the mature
woman. Beautiful pieces of rhinestone jewelry adorn almost every woman's
accessories.
If trends are an indication of the rhinestones future, it appears to have
a vibrant healthy life ahead of it. Pleasing for most woman with a fashion
sense who instantly recognize the value and beauty of rhinestones!
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